At just 20 years old, with nothing but US$300 in his pocket and a suitcase full of dreams, a young man from a small town in Kelantan took a leap of faith. No connections, no guarantees, just pure grit and a belief that hard work could take him anywhere. Today, the name Zang Toi is synonymous with timeless elegance and luxury fashion.
But his journey from the quiet streets of Kuala Krai to the glittering runways of New York is more than just a fashion story. It’s a story of perseverance, hustle, and believing in your own worth even when the odds are stacked against you.
A Childhood Woven with Fabric and Family
Born on 11 June 1961 in Kuala Krai, Zang Toi was the youngest of seven siblings. While helping stock shelves with soy sauce and onions planted his early business instincts, his creative spark came from the women around him, especially his mother.
“She was of the generation that wore the cheongsam daily,“ he shares.
“Mom wasn’t a shopper, so she shopped once a year before the Chinese New Year and would buy enough fabric to make 20 to 25 cheongsams.”
Zang Toi, whose full name is Toi See Zang, often tagged along and helped pick out the fabrics. This is the quiet beginning to what would become a lifelong obsession with textiles and style.
A Bold Move Abroad
Though the family managed to send two of his older brothers to university in the UK, they could only afford to send Zang to Canada. He flew to Toronto to complete the equivalent of high school, initially considering interior design as a career. But his sister gently nudged him toward fashion, reminding him of his natural flair and love for style.
That push was all it took. Zang bought his first copy of Vogue, completed a college application with a cut-and-paste mood board, and was accepted into both Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. He chose Parsons, knowing it was one of the most respected names in the industry. His father paid his tuition, but told him that was all he could help with.
So Zang packed his bags, landed in New York with US$300, and started from scratch.
How Zang Toi Learned to Sew from Scratch
For a small-town kid who had never held a sewing needle, getting into one of the best fashion schools in the world without any sewing background was a major challenge. But giving up was never on the table.
“I knew I had to work three times harder than everyone else. And I was ready for that,” he once said.
To survive in New York, Zang took on a part-time job with a knitwear designer in SoHo, using his earnings to pay for rent, art supplies, and eventually his first sewing machine.
By his second year, he was working full-time and surviving on just three hours of sleep a night, balancing school, work, and the steep learning curve of an industry that waits for no one.
His Big Break
After graduating in 1984, Zang stayed on to work with the same designer, Mary Jane Marcasiano, gaining hands-on experience that would serve him well in the years to come.
Then, in 1989, after nearly a decade of learning, working, and perfecting his craft, he launched his own label. Just two months in, an editor from Vogue stumbled upon his designs and the rest, as they say, is fashion history.
In March 1990, Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour featured Zang in an issue spotlighting the decade’s emerging talents. He was one of the first Asian designers to receive such recognition. Later that year, he was named the Mouton-Cadet Young Designer of the Year.
Newsday columnist Frank De Caro would write, “If anyone is THE NEXT BIG THING, it’s him.”
From Local Boy to Dressing Royalty
Zang’s signature style; bold colors, elegant lines, and intricate detail, quickly earned him a loyal clientele. Among them? Sharon Stone, Elizabeth Taylor, Melinda Gates, Farrah Fawcett, Kirstie Alley, and even members of the Saudi royal family.
He became known not just for single garments, but for outfitting entire wardrobes. Many of his clients don’t buy a piece; they buy a whole season’s worth of couture in one go.
His atelier on Lexington Avenue in Manhattan is home to gowns that start at US$13,000, and his trunk shows with Saks Fifth Avenue remain a top revenue generator. While he no longer sells at Neiman Marcus or Nordstrom, his business still pulls in millions a year, and it’s highly profitable.
Zang Toi: An Inspiration for the Next Generation
Over the years, Zang has seen the rise of more Asian designers on global runways; something that fills him with pride.
“When I came here 33 years ago, there were many talented Asian designers, but they stayed behind the scenes. They didn’t push forward. Now, that’s changing,” he told NBC News.
“Fashion and beauty, like life, should have no borders. Talent is talent.”
From Firecrackers to Fashion Shows
In his studio, alongside crystal chandeliers and silk gowns, there’s a small black-and-white photo of young Zang and his brother dangling firecrackers outside their family’s shop window in Kuala Krai. It’s a reminder of where he came from, and how far he’s come.
“I came here with no money. Not even a cent to my name,” he once said.
“Now I have this little empire.”
And that empire, built with heart, hustle, and an unshakable love for design, began not with polished skills or industry connections.
It began with a small-town boy who didn’t even know how to sew, but refused to let that stop him from chasing his dream.
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